A good, strong, fine day.
Milan is recovering and will be just fine. He needs to take it easy for a few days and apparently had ignored many signs and warnings from peers for a couple days that he had altitude sickness. One lodge owner apparently practically slapped him upside the head and told him to turn around. After the two-hour hike to Pheriche, we found him in a jubilant state. We spoke with him privately and parted ways on good terms, very grateful for his health and exchanging contact info. We’d be happy to recommend him, but only as a low-altitude guide right now. In a couple days he’ll be back on solid food.
After a 3-hour nap, quick bite, and 12 hours of sleep, Dozi’s his old self again—gently goofy and casually showing off. We had some debate about whether he is hydroelectric, as every time he takes a swig of water (pouring the bottle Nepalese style, without it ever touching his mouth—a trick that I never mastered and just look like an idiot attempting), he gives a satisfied “Ahhhhh” and then charges off with startling vigor.
But, at lunch, I popped into the kitchen of a pathside teahouse lunch place and snapped this photo at top—evidence that he does in fact eat the occasional mound of dal bhat (that’s him in the middle with his back against the corner of the wall).
We hiked into dark steeply and fogged in for a while but made it all the way to Namche Bazaar, doubling the work of our usual day. It felt great to put in a hard day’s hiking, and completely different to fighting the effects of altitude. This just felt like good, healthy outdoor exercise. Tomorrow we’re shooting for Lukla, which shouldn’t be too bad at all. And with a little luck we’ll be back in Kathmandu in two days, off to somewhere else in the Kathmandu Valley to chill out in warmer weather. Still enjoying being here, but also loving the feel of having put in a hard physical day and charging forward.