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Beware the Nazgul

Siwa is a conservative Muslim town. Most of the women are doubly covered as the ones above. When they see me coming, sometimes they will pull the blue shroud further over their heads so I don’t get a good glimpse of the black mesh over their faces.

My reputation precedes me.

The language here is also closer to Berber than Arabic, which is something. An hour or two from the Libyan border, it feels like this oasis of desert palms and salt marshes is in the middle of nowhere, which being in the middle of two deserts, I guess it kind of is. Unless you live here. But come on.


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