Slingshot vomitron switchbacks paved the first half of the 13-hour drive from Toraja to Ampana, an unobtrusive port town that provides access to the Togean Islands.
The region has had some rough tumbles, as it’s a bit of border between Christians and Muslims. At one checkpoint a soldier told me I look like Qaddafi. That’s a first for me.
The Togeans are set right on the equator and protected by the scorpion tail of Sulawesi’s dangling modifier northern crook of land. That’s about all I know about them. And they’re supposed to be beautiful with good diving.
Lonely Planet says the hardest part about the Togean Islands is leaving, but they also say that about Colombia. So it could really mean just about anything. Maybe people get kidnapped a lot. I cannot say.